The models offered there by Jacques Cartier (the last of the Cartier family to own and manage a branch of the world-famous jewellery firm) have a unique design, completely different from the Paris wristwatches.” “Another interesting period was during the Swinging London era with the portfolio by Cartier London from the 1960s to 1970s. “It covers the period from the 1920s to 1990s, but I focused on the platinum Cartier Paris wristwatches from the 1920s to the 1940s,” he says. Collector and author Mr John Goldberger has one of the largest collections of vintage Cartier on the planet. Cartier New York produced the fewest watches of the three houses, so, if I can get one from them or London, I will.”Īs you would also expect, each “house” of Cartier had different periods in the ascendancy. The last piece I bought was a Cartier New York Tank from the late 1940s/early 1950s. “It turned out to be the very first Tank ever sold by Cartier London. “Over 30 years ago, I bought a vintage Tank on Portobello Road, one Saturday morning,” says Mr Dowling. This setup lasted until the mid 1970s, and serious collectors have their own preferences between the three Cartiers. Uniquely, Cartier was run from the three separate locations as almost completely separate businesses – and watches from each contain small differences and are usually signed accordingly.
Second, as someone who mostly wears Rolex sports watches, I need something different to strap on my wrist on the odd occasion I have to wear a suit and tie.”Īnyone discussing vintage Cartier will soon start talking about “Cartier London”, “Cartier Paris” or “Cartier New York”. To someone who loves the history of the wristwatch, that’s a damned good reason to collect them. As Mr James Dowling, collector, dealer and writer puts it: “First, Cartier has an excellent claim to have invented the wristwatch. Its status as a jeweller as well as a watchmaker will always set Cartier aside from the grand maisons of Swiss watchmaking, but it played a huge part in watch history.
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